Thom Browne湯姆·布朗男裝中國(guó)首家專門店僑福芳草地新店開業(yè)

如果說Hedi Slimane以細(xì)身剪裁顛覆了當(dāng)代男生線條，THOM BROWNE則是把全球男生的褲子都修剪至腳踝之上。1965年美國(guó)出生的THOM BROWNE是極少數(shù)能以美式傳統(tǒng)剪裁影響著整個(gè)男裝界的設(shè)計(jì)師。2006年贏得了Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA)的年度男裝設(shè)計(jì)師一獎(jiǎng)后更是令每一季的設(shè)計(jì)都創(chuàng)意有余并經(jīng)典不斷。

If Hedi Slimane is credited for changing the silhouette of contemporary menswear with his slim cuts, Thom Browne must be credited with cropping men’s pants to above the ankles. Born in the U.S. in 1965, Thom Browne is one of the few designers who totally changed menswear with his traditional American tailoring skills. The recipient of CDFA Menswear Designer of the Year Award in 2006, the designer has managed to surprise us with creativity and classic designs every single season.

Thom Browne湯姆·布朗男裝的設(shè)計(jì)風(fēng)格正是他的個(gè)人穿衣之道，他鐘情50年代的西裝剪裁，永遠(yuǎn)妥帖的發(fā)型，窄長(zhǎng)領(lǐng)口的三鈕短身西裝，不過手腕的微短袖口，外套的腰間開義口，剛落在腳踝之上的褲管，沒有皮帶圈的高腰西褲，相同襯布的領(lǐng)帶，銀色領(lǐng)帶夾，button down恤衫，黑色禮服皮鞋，這些元素和著名的紅白藍(lán)三色永遠(yuǎn)都可在他的創(chuàng)作中找到，卻又每次都有不同。

His designs fully reflect his personal fashion style. His favourite 50’s style suit cuts, impeccably well-groomed, 3-button suits with narrow collars, cropped sleeves that reveal the wrists, a slit at the waist of the jacket, trousers that barely reach the ankle, high-waisted trousers without belts, ties with the same lining, silver tie clips, button down shirts, and black dress shoes along with the colour palette of red, white and blue are elements that frequently surface in his designs – these seemingly similar elements always manage to look different.

擁有大批粉絲的THOM BROWNE與I.T首次合作，在芳草地內(nèi)開設(shè)了首家THOM BROWNE專門店。店面設(shè)計(jì)保持了設(shè)計(jì)師一貫的風(fēng)格，無論是水磨石地面、灰色云石墻面、百葉窗，還是配套的懷舊家具，都將品牌招牌式的美式懷舊氣質(zhì)展露無遺。

Now the incredibly popular THOM BROWNE has teamed up with I.T and opened its first store at Parkview Green. The store, maintaining the consistent design style of THOM BROWNE stores, features polished flooring, gray stone walls, blinds, and nostalgic furnishing, all reflecting its signature American retro ambiance.

2016秋冬服裝秀

2016 Autumn/Winter Fashion Show

AW16 以“懷舊”這一主題，設(shè)計(jì)師腦洞大開并安排開場(chǎng)的雙胞胎模特進(jìn)行走秀，奠定了秋冬系列如鏡中人間的虛幻氛圍。為什么西裝——或是紐扣襯衫配上領(lǐng)帶，在一百多年之后依舊成為潮流？這個(gè)晚上，THOM BROWNE意圖將他的秀場(chǎng)還原成一個(gè)世紀(jì)以前的華盛頓廣場(chǎng)，這正與他設(shè)計(jì)的男士西裝自然舊的風(fēng)格相得益彰，他再一次從中吸收靈感。

The AW16 collection takes the theme of “nostalgia” and opens the fashion show with twin models, setting the tone with contrasting virtual and real images. Why is the suit still trendy after more than a century? On this night, THOM BROWNE takes us back to Washington Square about a century ago, a perfect setting for his tailored suit. Once again, this is the source of his inspiration.

細(xì)節(jié)也充滿了閃光點(diǎn)，破洞以及毛邊的細(xì)節(jié)元素被大量的運(yùn)用，再配合以格子，條紋等成衣表面的處理，既保留了品牌正裝方面的一貫剪裁特點(diǎn)又加入了只屬于這一季的時(shí)尚特質(zhì)。成衣顏色方面，設(shè)計(jì)時(shí)使用了品牌的經(jīng)典色調(diào)，以黑，白，灰以及海軍藍(lán)為主體的色調(diào)不僅突出了品牌特色，也讓本季的成衣看上去低調(diào)中又不失奢華。

Detailing is also a highlight of his designs, including cutouts and fringed details, finishing touches on check and stripe fabrics. He adheres to his traditional suiting skills while adding seasonal fashion elements. He incorporates his classic colours with black, white, gray, and navy blue to make the pieces discrete but luxurious at the same time.

已經(jīng)將西服處理到得心應(yīng)手的設(shè)計(jì)師本季更是將這一特點(diǎn)擴(kuò)大化，讓人們?cè)俅慰吹狡放茖?duì)于西服的獨(dú)到理解。系列中的下裝同樣值得關(guān)注，更多的直筒以及寬筒剪裁的下裝出現(xiàn)在秀場(chǎng)中，同樣的被賦予了本季具有特色的破洞等元素，卷起褲管，達(dá)到九分褲的效果，在呼應(yīng)當(dāng)下潮流搭配的同時(shí)繼續(xù)保持品牌特色的成衣面料與剪裁，與時(shí)俱進(jìn)又極具特色。

The master in suits has highlighted the details of his well-placed cuts, allowing us a better view of his deep knowledge of the suit. Trousers include more straight pants and loosely cut ones. Again, they are adorned by cutoffs and cropped lengths. Made in fabrics and cuts that are fully Thom Browne, these pieces are trendy at the same time.  

另外，經(jīng)典依舊傳承，本季經(jīng)典三色旗以及四道杠單品依舊延續(xù)，狗狗圖案元素的加入使得本季的基本單品更加的活潑生動(dòng)并不失時(shí)尚感，經(jīng)典單品中也加入了不少鮮艷的顏色。

The trademark tri-coloured flags and 4 stripe elements continue this season. The new addition of puppy prints adds a trendy touch to the basic pieces. There are also more bright colours in the collection.

今季THOM BROWNE的設(shè)計(jì)把“復(fù)古”和“運(yùn)動(dòng)”兩種美學(xué)融合。設(shè)計(jì)師在品牌經(jīng)典單品中帶出復(fù)古校園風(fēng)，將格紋條紋等各式圖樣加入其中，或以校園色調(diào)撞色拼接加以點(diǎn)綴，個(gè)性的混搭迭穿時(shí)而帥氣時(shí)而甜美。混合男裝元素，如塑料質(zhì)感的漆皮，標(biāo)志性的打褶技術(shù)，夾克的松緊袖口和腰帶的禮服讓女仕們穿上去除了優(yōu)雅,還有不一樣剛強(qiáng)的特別味道。

For the women’s collection this season, THOM BROWNE blends “retro” and “sporty” together. The check patterns, stripes, and preppy colours are patched and mixed to create sometimes cool sometimes sweet looks. Mixed with elements from menswear such as patent leather, pleating, ribbed cuffs and belted dresses, the women’s pieces are elegant but strongly distinctive.

THOM BROWNE的設(shè)計(jì)永遠(yuǎn)都是帶有深深的哥特式風(fēng)格，這一季以織錦、拼貼等工藝，拼湊西裝元素，玩味的比例，打造出超現(xiàn)實(shí)的效果。設(shè)計(jì)師利用精致手工的布藝，分層提花，羊毛和絨面裙，長(zhǎng)的斜紋軟呢和珠皮呢套裝散發(fā)出高級(jí)時(shí)裝的氣息。一貫的外套剪裁，合身的剪裁能修飾身形。 特別推介今季長(zhǎng)身的大衣可搭配簡(jiǎn)單的白襯衫，配及膝半裙。

THOM BROWNE’s designs are always deeply goth. Brocades, patchworks and playful proportions create a surreal effect. But the skillfully crafted fabrics, layered jacquards, woolen and velvet skirts, long stripe tweeds and other fabrics also add a touch of luxury to the look. The well tailored jackets are fit and streamlined. Noteworthy pieces include the long coats, simple white shirts, and the knee-length skirts.

今季更多了THOM BROWNE全黑皮革制品及設(shè)計(jì)師臘腸小狗Hector手拿包，當(dāng)然不少得品牌特色的紅白藍(lán)作點(diǎn)綴。經(jīng)典皮質(zhì)網(wǎng)球鞋亦是整體造型不可缺少的單品，今季還出了黑色綁帶鞋，充滿城市運(yùn)動(dòng)的氣氛，品牌特色的紅白藍(lán)也出現(xiàn)在皮鞋上。

Leather sneakers are also must-haves of the season. This autumn, the sneakers come with black laces for an urban touch. Signature red, white and blue also emerge on the shoes. Other new items include brand new all-black leather shoes and the Hector clutch, again with the red, white and blue colours.

鯨魚圖樣是本季其一大主打，出現(xiàn)在不同單品上面。有領(lǐng)帶細(xì)節(jié)的襯衫非常百搭，可配同系列中不同樣式的外套及百折短裙，帶出特別的校園風(fēng)格。系列當(dāng)然有品牌著名的黑,灰色設(shè)計(jì), 再加上間條紋于設(shè)計(jì)當(dāng)中。

The whale is a key pattern, appearing on various pieces. Shirts with tie details are very wearable, going well with different jackets and the pleated skirts for a preppy touch. And of course, there are also the signature black and gray pieces as well as striped pieces.